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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    1,473
    Thanks for the replies. I'm a big fan of Honda engines anyway; looks like you lose a little speed on the top end (ha!), but it would be worth it for the reliability plus Honda parts are all over the place up here. The model that comes standard with the Honda engine (Scout) has the spoke rims, which are what I would want anyway. If it turns out I need the extra fuel capacity I could always order the drum wheels later on, but I doubt if it will be necessary. I probably won't be able to get one for another year, but I definitely need to try one sometime. Bummer about the seat, but it might just give me an excuse to make one out of temperfoam or something like that. It'd be expensive, but easy enough to do.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    230
    Ural solo seat w/rubber-block suspension is a BIG success!
    I went for a ride and deliberately did not rise on the footpegs and aimed for the rocks and potholes in the trail, small wind-thrown trees, went over steep kelly-humps and torn-up skidtrails and the Ural seat is GREAT!
    It may be a sort of mediocre MOTORCYCLE seat, but it is first-rate on a MOTOTRACTOR.
    My butt and my low-back did NOT pain me even tho handlebar shock has left my throttlehand a bit sore this morning.

    I also replaced the eastern European "foam rubber" lining in the seat cover with closed-cell 5/8" sleeping bag pad foam.
    Just don't allow your tailbone to rest on the fwd. pointy pit of the seat that is directly over the hinge of it's suspension!
    Keep your hip pockets against the low "cantleboard and you will get a comfortable ride.

    I may still put a tractor two-stage aircleaner on the Rokon, and expanded metal mesh floor in the sidecar (so the sawdust, chips, bark, mud & snow will drop thru, and it will give good traction to boot soles even when wet or frozen, unlike the plywood floor), and I think I'de prefer the girder front end over the complicated "auto-grab" leading link one.

    If you get the spoke wheels, you may have enough clearance with the narrower tube-type tires to wrap rope around the tire, thru the spokes to "chain-up" like on old spoke-wheeled autos. (I believe the ballon-type tubeless tires give a better "ride".

    Re. the new seat: 'Bout time the "blind hog found an akern"! :-)
    Davo

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    1,473
    They list a 15" spoke wheel now, which is what I would get. I'd be using the standard tires for clearance, and the 15" spokes should minimize the side area for safer stream crossings.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    230
    "Doing Amazing Things, Slowly, (& Expensively)".....(Mebbe a new motto for Rokon? ;-)

    Two-wheel drive is something un-needed for "normal" trail-riding or backroads 99.9+% of the time.
    Where it is really appreciated is deep mud, snow, clawing your way up out of an arroyo or steep-banked creek.
    Also for REAL "off-roading"....(Over logs and blow-downs, crawling over and out of "kelly-humps"/"tank-traps", etc.)
    The Rokon will amaze you, particularly if you have had experience with regular motorcycles.

    Just make sure you REALLY need all that ability before you sell-out your $obama-fun-bucks$ (tm)

    Davo

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    central Illinois
    Posts
    2
    Hello! Please tell me how to find Bob Gallagher's forum. Considering buying a Rokon Trail Breaker and would like info/thoughts/opinions about the auto grab, and anything else anyone can share. Thanks for the help.
    Donna

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Southern Kalifornistan
    Posts
    18
    If you do a google search on Bob Gallagher's Rokon Forum, this'll pop up: http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/mai...Frokon%2Fstart

    Google's amazing, eh? (yeah, sorry, smart comment...I know. Hehehe...welcome to the forum in any case!)

    If it were me, I wouldn't bother with the autograb, just more weight, cost, and complexity. If you want a smoother ride, air down and that'll work fine. But then again, I'm a neanderthal with a two stroke rokon made about forty years ago, hehe. You might not want to listen to me LOL. The Kohler and Hondakon versions are much quieter, but also more expensive, heavier, and higher maintenance. The Power Bee is basically a chainsaw motor, not much you can do to quiet it down. Even if you get a better muffler/exhaust on it there's still tons of engine noise...but if I want stealth I'll use electric. Animals don't really care about the noise when you're going hunting, but shut that engine down and watch them haul off....

    That being said, if you're looking for quiet, I'd go with a Honda CT engine. Possibly a Lifan, but I haven't had FNV with that, other than hearing folks like them. If I ever fry this power bee, I might go for a Honda CT transplant, but I'll keep it a 70cc or 90cc. Still plenty of capability with the two speed tranny on them. Probably have to ditch the albion though, don't think it could handle the additional torque unless it's modded.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    central Illinois
    Posts
    2
    Uh-huh, I guess I deserved that. If I were smart and savvy enough to know how to use those emoticons, I'd use the one that's slapping his hand on his head. Heck, I'll try it: Did it work?? Just so it's clear, I laughed when I read your Google comment. Maybe I should have opted for the DOH emoticon . . . .

    Anyway, I am but the designated typist for the brains of the partnership; Jim's the guy who's looking at the Rokon, but he doesn't type. :) However, he understood everything you wrote. (I didn't.) You gave us exactly what he were looking for -- and we appreciate it. Thanks for responding so quickly and giving us the benefit of your knowledge and experience.

    (Any actually, both of us enjoyed the smart alec comment.)

    Might be back with more questions. Hope you won't mind helping if you see us here again.

    Best,
    Donna

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