I've always found this thread to be useful:
http://www.warriortalk.com/showthrea...-The-AK-Rifles
I've always found this thread to be useful:
http://www.warriortalk.com/showthrea...-The-AK-Rifles
In 2007 (4 years ago), most guys ran iron sights. Today, 2011, we see alot of red dot sights. And I suspect, with the advent of the TWS top cover rail, we will see a variety of optics previously unavailable for the system.
As well, we see far more ranges where longer distances are available, etc. So my personal opinion, based on real life, is that we should be able to hit out to 300. When available, we do it in training. Not a really big deal but it requires a little more in zero work.
Gabe Suarez
Warrior Talk Blog
Tactical Gear For The Civilian Fighter
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I'm confused here. What Gabe says in the first post in this thread, and the thread linked above seem different. I thought you were supposed to zero at 100 (with the sight at 1), as described in the above thread. Not zero at 25. So is zero-ing at 25 just the shortcut when you don't have 100 yards available? If 100 is available, zero at 100?
In the post right above yours Gabe explained why the change.
From our recent AKs clinics I agree over half the rifles we zeroed had something other than "standard" AK sights. If everybody just had cowitnessed red dots zeroing wouldn't require any change, but many guys have red dots or top cover mounted irons with a line-of-sight 2" or more above the bore. For these guys, a 25m zero would have them hitting below the torso at +/-250m.
Look at the difference in dropoff between a line-of-sight 2" above the bore vs 1.5" (standard) when zeroed at 25m (.3BC, 2400fps, 124gr, standard day):
Range 25/50/100/200/300/400m
2" 0/1.1/2.0/-2.2/-16.4/ 43.6
1.5" 0/1.6/3.5/1.3/-10.9/-36.1
If you have the range, zero at 100m (with the rear sight leaf set to 1). This way you retain the functionality of the rear sight leaf and battlesight setting.
If you can't shoot to 100m, there are work arounds to get a close initial zero at 25m. One way is to zero for a point-of-impact offset about .5" below your point-of-aim (sights 1.5" above bore) or 1" below point-of-aim (sights 2" above bore).
This online ballistic calculator will let you find the appropriate offset for your setup:
http://www.hornady.com/ballistics-re...ics-calculator
And don't forget to go out and check your zero at least once to make sure.
Gabe Suarez
Warrior Talk Blog
Tactical Gear For The Civilian Fighter
Training For The Martial Civilian
God - Family - Tribe
That Is Where Loyalty Lies
And Those Are The Only Things
I will Fight, Kill, or Die For
Ok thanks Gabe and Steve. I'm running irons. I'll stick with the zero at 100 yards (I have a 100 yd range available).
I found, but have NOT verified, these.
AK47 = 25 Meter Zero
HK91/G3 = 30 Meter/200 Meter Zero
FAL = 30 Meter/200 Meter Zero
Last edited by Gabe Suarez; 04-11-2011 at 08:26 AM. Reason: How about we refrain from posting links to outside forums?
Member: GeorgiaCarry.org
Great refrence boss on zeroes for the AK family. I think your first post should become a sticky for future members.
AKA: infidelprodigy
A bullet in the head is a bullet in the head.....
I didnt understand at first the advantage of the 25 or 50 yard zero. Now I do. I will do all of mine like that.
From what I understand the 25m zero at the 100m setting will calibrate the battle sight for torso hits out to 300m, correct? That means that the elevation of the sight at the 200m setting is the same as the battle sight? And this will also allow more precise adjustments at known distances so you can use the 400 for 400, 500 for 500, etc?
"I don't care if I fall as long as someone else picks up my gun and keeps on shooting."
"Our image is of an unshaven outlaw infidel in sweaty camos, with a Kalashnikov rifle on his shoulder and a Glock stuck in his pants, teaching civilians how to do nasty things without asking for fingerprints, who obeys man's law only out of convenience, prizes freedom over order, and swings kettlebells for relaxation." -Gabe Suarez
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