AK System Zeroing
OK guys....we see just as many students bringing red dots and other optics to class as we do guys shooting irons.
Please - PLEASE - bring a zeroed rifle to class. If you cause us to stop everything to get you zeroed, you are wasting YOUR money and YOUR training time, as well as everyone elses'. If in doubt, come to class a day early and zero.
Solution....bring a zeroed rifle....at least a close zero.
See below for GENERIC zero results. If this does not match YOUR rifle exactly it is because its a generic zero. You do need to check with your rifle/ammo, etc.
For 5.45x39, a near zero of 50 yards, SHOULD bring the bullet back into zero at 200 yards and drop about 9" at 300 yards.
200 yds: zero
For 7.62x39, a near zero of 25 yards, SHOULD bring the bullet back into zero at 200 yards and drop about 14" at 300 yards.
25 yds Zero
50 yds +1.5
100 yds +3.00
150 yds +2.5
200 yds Zero
250 yds -6.0
300 yds -14.0
If you are running a red dot, I suggest these zeroes. If you are running a scope with a BDC, research the best use of your BDC....for example, my ACOG, gives me good BDC with the #4 being correct for 300 yards.
If you are running irons, you should get the near zeroes (WITH THE REAR SET AT THE #1), then set it at the BATTLE SIGHT ZERO (the notch with the letter), and then verify at the distances in question if possible using both the Battle Sight Zero (letter) as well as the corresponding number on the ladder.
I am going to print this, you dont care do you.
Nah....go ahead. Understand that the info is barrle length dependant. It may not be applicable to a 12.5" or 8" barrel....not exactly anyway.
Its still better then guessing.
Gabe any idea if it matters if the X39 is sighted in at 25M (appr 27').
If the goal is to be able to hit with your dot, or optics, or without needing to change any setting....out to 300 yards, then, no, a 25 yard zero will not do it. The zero is a very individual thing. So figure out your velocity and what a suitable zero will look like at 25 (assuming all you have is 25), then verify it at class.
Guys....it is 2011 and ballistics programs are all over the place as are chronographs.
I would try out 100 yard zero. You may like it more especially with extended ranges.
Originally Posted by BearMBD
The idea of zeroing at 25m (or 50m for the 5.45) is to get you close at 200m. Then you go to 200m and fine tune (or go to 100m and fine tune to +3" (+1.5" for 5.45).
Originally Posted by BearMBD
Exactly...its a range shortcut to get you "in the neighborhood". I think you need to get out and shoot at all the distances...at least once, to verify it all.
From what I've seen the sights aren't right on except for the actual range they are tuned for. So one should pick the maximum range they want to be able to hit to POA on and fine tune it for that. Ranges under that on the scale will be fairly close, but get progressively further off as you go higher. Hence the reason most zero for the battlesight and leave it there -- letting optics handle the further engagements and just learn where it hits at less than battlesight range.