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  1. #71
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    295
    Tinkering With the Sudaev:

    A ten-ply truck tire sidewall seems to be "just right", (IMO) for material to make a new buffer from. (Original is aprox. 1/4" thick...Uniroyal sidewall material is closer to 3/8", but is resiliant and shoudl reduce "shock".)
    If the little "ears" on the lower edge the recoil spring/rod plate have work-hardened and cracked you can drill thru the plate and new buffer from the rear of the plate to accpet a 1/2" copper carpet tack that will peen inot the counter-sunk holes in the plate nicely. (And if the you have hot ammo/weak recoil spring, your breechblock will be doing the "peening" of the formerly sharp end of the tack/rivet.)

    FYI:
    7/16" bolt's un-treaded shank is the same diameter as the cross-pin that holds the folding stock onto the rear of the receiver.
    1/4" diameter bolt is same diameter as the rivet that hinges the front of the lower receiver to the upper receiver.

    I removed the arc-weld mutilated remains of my de-watted folding stock entirely...
    If I get the SBR thing done, or legally lengthen the OAL of the barrel, I will try to re-build it.

    My 1983 Romanian mil. surp ammo is pretty hot, and I would like to try some lower-powered ammo and see if the gun still cycles reliably.
    If so, I may get a stronger recoil spring for the "hot" ammo.

    Widened/deepened the rear sight notch and painted a white line from the bottom of it as well as painting the front sight.
    MUCH better sight picture so I will be able to tell more about potential accurascy very soon.

    Davo

  2. #72
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    295
    Gabe,
    PM waiting for you (if I pushed the right buttons! ;-)
    (Un-solicited)Buffer headed your way by postal service....
    Try it and let us know what you think....(???)
    Davo

  3. #73
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    295
    Re. Copper tack as rivet for buffers on recoil plate.
    -----------------------------------
    This works WELL, but since there have been no replies I don't think anyone on WT would care to hear about this upgrade/fix for even damaged recoil plates & how-to-do-it.

    If you ARE a PPS43 shooter and ARE interested, I'll go into detail here on this thread, or you can e-mail me off-list at: dave3220@mac.com..
    Davo

  4. #74
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    295
    The Sudaev seems to be "forgiving" of hot or lower vel. ammo. (Might be part of having the long bolt travel comapred to PPSh41 and others?)
    My "pistol" shoots & functions very well w/ 7.63 Mauser ammo that is aprox. 200 fps slower than the hotter TOK rds.
    I have great difficulty getting the open sights in focus, but can put 3 or 4 shots in a group you can cover with a dime @ 12 yds. and 6 to 8 shots in one covered by a quarter @ same distance.
    From a rest off the porch railing, I can hit the 81 yd. steel trukey suilloette every shot I call "good".

    I have GOT to get better sights and pony up the $'s & go thru the BS for SBR so I can put a shoulder stock back on the gun!
    Should make a super "carbine" since it is not too heavy and the receiver is slim enough to grasp comfortably for un-slung carry.

    Shoots noticeably flatter and faster than even .357 carbine w/any loads heavier than 125 gr. factory .357.
    Privi-Partisan ammo is better than the steel case WOLF, IMO.
    Davo

  5. #75
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Southwestern Michigan
    Posts
    1
    For those who don't know and might be interested, Parts kits are readily available, and generally quite affordable, around $50. to $100. They are fairly easily converted to semi auto closed bolt operation using ak fire control groups, as well as some Remington shotgun and rifle fire control groups. I bought the one I am working on from Centerfire Systems on sale for under $70, including 3 apparently new military magazines, and a few other goodies, but no barrel. New manufactured barrels run around $110. and are available in both 10" like the original, or 16" for those who would like to build a carbine. They are also available in both 7.62 x 25 Tokarev, as well as 9mm.
    I know I am preaching to the choir in general with this post, but there are probably quite a few newbies that would find the build up a relatively easy "get your feet wet" first gun building project. Lots of build info out there with detailed instructions to help out. Have fun if you decide to go for it!
    blackbikesteve

  6. #76
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    NWFL
    Posts
    12,408
    Re-building a FA kit into something legal is attractive, but if you do not have a properly equipped shop and it would be time consuming. Still need to be a SBR to be useful so it requires NFA paper work.
    I had speculated about keeping a FA kit on hand for SHTF scenario of without rule of law so one could be put together to fight attacking hordes or what ever. I decided i would use what I normally practice with which is semi-auto.

    I know today we use the term submachine gun loosely, but there is no real substitute for the real thing. A controllable FA is desirable, but uses a lot of ammo and fires a lot of rounds. Makes speed reloading important and it is not just ammo expenditure, but malfunction. I have a better chance of no malfunctions from 20 rounds fired in semi-auto versus a hundred fired in full-auto or at least this is how I see it. But for dealing with a mix of cover and concealment a full-auto does have its advantages for sure.
    Until reopening of the machine gun registry I pass on a full auto kit.

    Good luck and enjoy your rebuild.
    Last edited by barnetmill; 04-11-2017 at 07:48 AM. Reason: typos
    One who hammers his gun into a plow plows for those who do not....Unknown
    ...at the end of the day its not about anything else but YOU AND YOURS..... Gabe Suarez
    ....WANT not NEED is what America is all about. ..... Gabe Suarez
    Its not about how fast you can load, but about how well you can shoot ..... Someone being saved by a speed load is not something that has happened with any regularity. Gabe Suarez

  7. #77
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    The Once Free State
    Posts
    12,172
    I "get" the fascination with full auto; but trust me for anything short of a LMG or Belt Fed it's not necessary; and even for the "Big Guns" there are fast triggers (no NOT bump Fire) that make them quite effective. I think SMGs are great weapons in the right environment and 762x25 adds a bit of excitement over 9mm, especially in a SMG length barrel. The problem for me with the PPSh4 and in this case the PPS43 is the cheap surpluss ammo has dried up, the guns are no longer "modern" (they are huge by modern SMG standards), and parts/mags are old. In the case of the PPS43, we're talking maybe 60 years since the last mag was made, with no proof of how they've been maintained or treated in the interim.

    Taking a WW2 design and changing it to semi auto with a hodge-podge of parts isn't my idea of the best way to build anything more than a toy. Yes Id use one if it was all I had, much like Id use a 80% "glock" if it was all I had OR a WW2 Liberator; but once I used it to obtain something better, Id pass it on to the next guy who showed up withou a proper weapon--and tell him "this should work--at least it should work better than a sharp stick--but don't fire it too much"...

    Somehow I resisted the urge to "build" AKs and FALs before them and those were pretty straight forward builds. Cobbling together a semi auto conversion from numerous sources isn't my idea of fun. Maybe that's because I doing have too, and maybe its because I never took a day of shop in my life...Have Fun

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