Adjusting windage on the AK front sight

**Jim Fuller** · 12-15-2006, 05:49 AM

Several people have emailed me about getting the front sight drum to move on there AK's so I thought it was time to post this.

There is a cheep tool out there that is designed to do this but twice I've tried to use one and they just bent both times.

There is a good tool made by B-square that works here's the link, http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=623495
For those that don't want to spend 20 bucks for a tool that you will only use once there are options. First soak the drum in penetrating oil, Kroil is best but WD 40 will most likely work as well. You may have to let it soak over night. At this point I use my 12 ton arbor press but I know most don't have one of these. So you will need a solid surface, a vise works well, you will need to put something under the sight to lift it off the surface to keep from bending the sight ear and to provide a place for the drum to move, a socket works well for this or maybe a large hex nut. Now you need a punch or steel rod close to the diameter of the drum and your BIG HAMMER, I think you get the rest, don't hit your finger. :p
If it is not cooperating you may need to heat it with a torch, once it breakes loose it should move easilly.
Sounds caveman but hey it's an AK. If anybody has a better idea please chime in.

Good Luck
Jim Fuller

**Erich** · 12-15-2006, 06:33 AM

I've never used anything but a hammer and punch on an AK's front sight (have been doing it since '87) - just did it last weekend on my new Yugo UF. Never used Kroil or any other oil - got a friend to hold it firmly to the bench, padded the brass rod with a couple of pieces of masking tape, and whacked away. There was a time (late '80s - Norincos everywhere) when I was quite good at it, but this past weekend it took me a few test shots to get it right. (Good to have friends at the range as spotters and to clamp the gun to the bench while you whack on it. :D )

I hadn't fired an AK in more than 15 years, I think. I forgot how dirty they make the shooter - went home looking like a Welsh coal miner. :D

**Rob72** · 12-15-2006, 06:59 AM

A good hammer-block can be made with a 1/2" nyoln cutting board. Drill a hole, and Dremel a couple of grooves. Marvel Mystery Oil is another good mover-lube.;)

**Stahlmaske** · 12-15-2006, 07:46 AM

Can you really apply enough torque on the B-Square sight pusher to move the drum? It does not look any more robust than the Tapco tool (which did not work for me).

**Jim Fuller** · 12-15-2006, 08:01 AM

Stalmaske
The B Square tool bolts to the front sight, much stronger attachment than the Tapco tool

**Ironbarr** · 12-15-2006, 04:25 PM

I am one who hasn't been able to move the drum... I've tapped it (as mentioned elsewhere), I've whacked it some (as has also been mentioned); I've tried the TAPCO tool... it didn't move, all this before and after using penetrating oil.

Do I really want to put (what amounts to) a sledge whack to it? Won't the FS bend, break, twist, jump up and down crying "no more, no more"?

I don't want to put a cant into a straight, square and reasonably close FS.

Help??? Please?

Thanks for your attention.

**karl johnson** · 12-15-2006, 04:32 PM

I took a B Square tool to Iraq with me and used it sucessfully on dozens of rifles. It is a very good thing to have.

**Jim Fuller** · 12-18-2006, 05:35 AM

Originally Posted by Ironbarr

I am one who hasn't been able to move the drum... I've tapped it (as mentioned elsewhere), I've whacked it some (as has also been mentioned); I've tried the TAPCO tool... it didn't move, all this before and after using penetrating oil.

Do I really want to put (what amounts to) a sledge whack to it? Won't the FS bend, break, twist, jump up and down crying "no more, no more"?

I don't want to put a cant into a straight, square and reasonably close FS.

Help??? Please?

Thanks for your attention.

Ironbar,
as mentioned in my previous post use a solid surface with something under the front sight for support, a 1/2 short socket works well for this it lifts the sight off the solid surface while still providing support and gives the drum a place to move.
If you don't have any luck take it to a gun friendly machine shop or auto repair that has an arbor press or buy the B-square tool.
It will move.

Jim Fuller

**Ironbarr** · 12-18-2006, 06:47 AM

Jim,

Thank you for your reply, I will work on it more.

My last outing (Friday past) I began holding left and bit at 25yds and it bring POI to the target - nice 3-rnd groups of about 2". Just a bit of tweak should slip it right in there. The FS post is maybe <1/8" left of center. This Century WASR-10 shoots good w/Brown Bear SP and Wolf FMJ... and tighter w/WinWB FMJ

Photo shows one comparison... again, holding left of impact.

Thanks again.

**Polar11** · 12-18-2006, 07:33 AM

After a gallon (exagerating here) of Kroil soaking overnight I was finally able to move the front sight of my WASR-10 w/ a 5lb. sledge hammer and punch. Even after the oil I still bent the frame on the tool like Stahlmaske posted a pic of. If the tool available at MidwayUSA.com is as good as everyone says it is I may just pick one up. It seems that the fine tuning would be a lot easier at the range. Bringing the sledge to the range just to go left of the target, then right of the target, then back left sucks.

Or maybe I just need to work on my sighted firing

.