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Thread: AK-47 Zero

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    S. Florida
    Posts
    291
    Correct about a 25yd zero. That's how we used to get a "battle sight" on the M14 and M16A1 back in the "Old Corps" days of the late 60s. We always figured that if you could get a decent sight picture of "center of NVA" (impossible in the environment that we were in), then we were fine from CQB through max practical range. When I get to the range (after I find some ammo) that's my plan to sight in my new AK. I'm also looking at a Kobra red dot sight to help my aging eyes.:D

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    16,899
    I was playing around with NORMAS on-line ballistic calculator and worked out a 200M zero with 122GR Wolf ammo.

    You could zero with the rear sight set on 200M @15Y. The maximum height would be 4.1"@125Y, after being on @200M you would be -3.2"@250Y.

    My thoughts, use this for your every day carrying zero. If you know you are going into a CQB or other close range situation pull the sight down to 100M. The maximum height out to 100M (109Y) would be 0.5"@70Y and @200Y you are still only -6.0.

    Or conversely carry your rear sight @100M. If you have a longer engagement distance you should have time to raise the sight. If not, hold high a bit.

    If your engagement range is further out move the rear sight up to 300M to compensate for the drop. I really doubt that you need to go past 300M as target ID would be problematic.

    As I said I worked this out on a on-line calculator so YMMV defiantly comes into play here.

    Thoughts?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    215
    If you want a 100 meter zero, then get out to 100 meters and zero. Then check your close range zero to see where it's at. The close range expedient zeros are fine but your second longer range zero is going to be a guesstimate until you verify it. Variations in hold, ballistics, or even masked marksmanship errors can throw your second zero off from the theoretical.
    If you never plan on shooting past 25 meters, then the expedient zero will probably work just fine for you.

    Personal preference; I like to keep my weapon zeroed to match the graduations on the sight. With an AK, I like the 100 meter zero as a default and I'll dial in longer ranges if needs be. In a pinch, I can always hold over past 100 yards if, for some reason, I don't have time to run up the elevation. I'm more concerned about shooting over a target at an intermediate range so I like to keep the bullet path as close to the sight line as possible. My general rule of thumb is a point blank that doesn't go above or below the sight line any farther than the sights are above the bore. The 200 meter zero gives a maximum ordinate of 4.1" at 125 yards and to that you have to add dispersion so you may be up to 8" or more above your aiming point.
    Sion ap Rhys

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1,431

    Default Sight Tools

    All adjustments are done at the front sight. Its theoretically possible to adjust elevation with the tool kit that comes with the gun, and windage with a hammer. Most of us buy a sight tool for the purpose.

    The SKS/AK tool such as the one jack76590 mentioned may or may not work. These are sold by just about all of the supply houses. The problem is that on some AKs the cylinder for adjusting windage is too big to fit the hole in the sight tool. There is another type of tool made by B-Square that will work. Its sold by MidwayUSA as product number 623495, and lists for $16.29. You can see it at http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=623495.

    I had this problem with my Century build WASR-10 and with a friend's Egyptian Mahdi, using different c-clamp sight tools. The B-Square worked just fine. I've never tried the Tapco version, so I can't say anything about it.

    John W in SC

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    171
    Here's the B-Square tool:

    http://www.midwayusa.com/mediasvr.dl...eitemid=623495


    Here's the Tapco front sight tool. I have one and it works fine.

    http://www.tapco.com/item_pics/lg/TOOL0312_lg.jpg

    I can see how to attach the B-Square tool, but I'm not sure how you make adjustments with it. Never seen one in person.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1,431
    Quote Originally Posted by elmer_fudd_gantry
    Here's the B-Square tool:

    http://www.midwayusa.com/mediasvr.dl...eitemid=623495

    I can see how to attach the B-Square tool, but I'm not sure how you make adjustments with it. Never seen one in person.
    The B-Square has four hex head bolts. The two big ones you can see in the photo hold the tool to the sight tower. There are two smaller ones that you can barely see. These push the sight from side to side.

    To use the B-Square you first attach it firmly to the sight tower. You can leave it on while you fire the gun. You then use the two smaller bolts to push the sight whichever way you want. Loosen one side as you tighten the other. When you think you have it, losen both small bolts and see if anything changes. (It might.) If you're still good, remove the tool and check again, as the weight of the tool could change things. Its really easier to do than it is to explain.

    If you have the c-clamp style and it fits your gun, stick with it. If you're buying one now, I'd get the B-Square. It seems to fit more guns, and I find it easier to use because I can make finer adjustments with it. Either one will do the job.

    John W in SC

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    414
    To use the sight adjuster in the pic, it's easy. The side that you can't see, there is a hole in the tool to allow the front sight pin to slide into, if needed. Just line up the sight pin with the hole and crank the adjuster. Also, the slot that is shown on the threaded adjuster in the picture is used to adjust the front sight height.

    My suggestion in purchase on of the rear sights with windage adjustment. Sight the rifle in at 25 meters (or you distance choice) with the rear sight set at zero left/right and the ramp set at 1 (for 100 meters). Then you can simply use the rear sight for adjustment depending on your range and for windage. This is how I set mine and it consistantly hits an 8 inch steel at 200 meters. Meaning 8 out 10 from sitting or kneeling. IMHO, any hope of real accuracy past 200 meters with an AK is fantasy. Minute of Man with an AK is all you really need. It ain't never gonna be a target rifle.
    Shocking, uh? :D
    _______________________________________
    Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    171
    I believe Paul Gomez posted something awhile back about East German night sights for the AK. Don't remember the context. I've not seen any of the East German night sights in person. I did find this pic. Not sure how they clip on. Do they give you a larger notch in the rear sight?


  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    16,899
    Quote Originally Posted by marcclarke
    Or are you trying for a never-touch-it single sight setting?
    Yes, I was trying to find something similar to the AR15/M16 IBZ. But with the lower sight line and different ballistics it is difficult.

    I am now thinking more along the lines of starting zeroing @30M which should put you on (or close) @100M, then moving back to 100M and fine tuning the zero.

    That puts you within 6" of POA out almost to 200Y. If you are engaging past 100M you should have time to move the rear sight to 200M or whatever you need.

    I'm curious though about zeroing an AimPoint. Does anyone know the sight height of an AimPoint on an Ultimak rail with a low ring?

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    eastern NC
    Posts
    5
    Try zeroing your optic 2" high at 50 m's.
    +4 3/4 at 100,+3 1/2 at 150, zero at 200,-6 5/8" at 250,-18" at 300
    Works for me
    S/F ncshooter

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