Manufacturer Quality 2022

[CZ Man]

Gabe, who's making your match barrels for the "Quigley" line? I saw that on your website the other day.

[LawDog]

you need to heat the upper a little to slide it over the barrel extension.

Is my cheap little Wagner heat gun enough to accomplish this task or does it require something more?

[georgeib]

Is my cheap little Wagner heat gun enough to accomplish this task or does it require something more?

Not Yonderling, but I've used the oven set at 350, and also a propane torch to heat the front of the receiver for a FEW seconds. Never tried using a heat gun as mine doesn't feel like hot enough. YMMV.

[Yondering]

Is my cheap little Wagner heat gun enough to accomplish this task or does it require something more?

I use either a cheapo (but hot) Hobo Freight heat gun or a propane torch. Usually I just use the torch, because it keeps the heat more localized, but a lot of people use a heat gun.

[Yondering]

Yondering, I also like BCM uppers first the thermal fit. You mentioned bedding the upper to the lower to eliminate rattle. I’m curious as to what your thoughts are to those lowers that use one of those nylon tipped set screws to remove rattle between uppers and lowers. Thanks.

I have used some (like Aero Precision lowers) that come with those set screws, and modified a couple of my own for the same, but they didn't give the tight fit I wanted. The adjustment between "rock solid" and "rattle" is very small, and doesn't seem to last all that long IME. They also don't do anything at all about fit at the front pin. If you're just looking for something that takes out most of the rattle on a very loose fit I guess they're OK, but I prefer a rock solid feel with no detectable play or rattle at all.

One very easy method is just an O-ring around the front lug, if it fits with your handguard. I forget the size, but I get the O-ring kits from the auto parts stores and use whichever size fits tightly over the front lug and still allows the pin to be inserted with some pressure. The o-ring will get pinched between the upper and lower when you close them, forming a tight fit and very solid feel. Downside is the O-ring will have to be replaced fairly often.

For actual bedding, I use "ultra black" RTV in a few key areas between the upper and lower, namely around the rear pin, front mag well corners, and near the bolt catch. You only want it to stick to one surface, so I use Johnson's paste wax on the upper for a release agent (make sure to let it dry first). During the bedding process I use the O-ring trick above to spring the receivers apart as much as possible, leaving a rock solid feel once everything is dry. Use a sharp knife to trim any excess once it's cured (don't wipe when it's wet, that makes a mess on an anodized receiver.)

A well used O-ring, just about ready for replacement:


A bedded lower, with RTV ready to be trimmed. Not all that pretty in the pic, but invisible when trimmed and upper/lower are joined.

[pangloss]

I have a couple of Geissele Super Duties that seem like great rifles. Both are still low round count though. I can shoot one inch groups at 100 yards with the scoped one using Gold Dots, and I'm not particularly good with a rifle. I think Geissele is making rifles in 6mm ARC now, which could be very interesting.

Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk

[Screwball]

The worst fit of any receivers I've had were Spikes, and when I called them I got a big attitude, money spends else where.

To expand on this, Spikes was always considered good to go… for years. I picked up two uppers from them in 2009 (piston 5.56mm and .22), and was happy until I had to deal with their CS.

Originally from NJ, so my uppers had pinned brakes on them. Moving to ME, and then getting into suppressors, I sent them out to ADCO to pull them so I could put stuff on the end. ADCO did great work.

Got them back, installed the new flash hider (Griffin with Taper Mount). Used a Magpul block, and my torque wrench… but didn’t have shims to time it. Once the shims came in, I go to remove the hider in the same setup as when I installed it… entire barrel rotates in the extension. Pulled the block out, and the feed ramps still lined up on the extension and upper. I put the hider back on, and it popped back to the regular spot.

So, I contact Spikes… think it is John that handles warranties. Tell him what happened, said it’s been over 10 years since I got the upper, but I know they have a lifetime warranty (partially why I bought them). He asks for pictures to prove it is one of their uppers… so take shots of their markings. Silence for a little over a week.

Reply back, John said he had COVID, but had no idea why I sent the pictures. Gave him a brief synopsis, not mentioning that the email thread was still in the picture email, as well as my reply. Crickets again. So, now I’m figuring I have to get a new barrel and swap everything over.

Barrel was from Adams Arms; 1:8” stainless… done in Melonite. Figured I’d give them a shout, since I didn’t have much to lose. Guy I spoke with said he didn’t work for AA back then, but asked to send pictures to confirm that it is their barrel and would look into it. Sent them, and received a call a few hours later… they sent a shipping label to take a look at it. Was told that if it isn’t covered, they would replace… but I’d have to pay for the barrel. Since I’d have to anyways… wasn’t losing much by doing that.

Received the upper back a little over a week later… new 1:7” CM barrel and gas block, no charge. Was very happy that they actually stood behind their product, unlike Spikes. Only negative was the old barrel was accurate as hell… so will have to see when I get out to the range this spring.

I still have the Spikes .22 upper, which is going to be put on a dedicated lower next week. Doubt I’ll have any issues with that, but I will never buy another thing with Spikes’ name on it after that.