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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    506

    Default A Book For The Warrior Library-That Is Not about Fighting-Chris Bertish`s Stoked!

    He is a Big Wave Champion

    I picked up this book and turning it over the simple quote at the bottom of the page grabbed my attention immediately. "If you panic don`t panic." It sounded so obvious even a bit sarcastic and yet it made perfect sense to me. Forming the next step of the quote by Navy Seal Woody: "Fear is a choice don`t choose it" Because I have have a tendency to get overwhelm, when starting something difficult, by everything that still needs to be learned/done; for example learning French that this simple piece of advice made perfect sense to me.

    I started reading it and found myself reaching for a pen and paper to remember all the quotes that contain these great pieces of advice. At the same time the book did not turn into a lecture and I found myself unable to put it down, totally engrossed in Chris`s story, reading the book in one sitting.

    And that is what is so great about this book. It is a great story, that happens to be true and which contain these great life lessons that worked-That was used in a dangerous environment and that can easily be applied to achieve one`s own dream/goal. Each struggle and the lessons learned from them naturally builds on to each other, for example learning early on:"If you lose in life don`t lose the lesson." Then having to deal with setbacks as a full-time surfer realizing that: "Our greatest growth lies in our lowest moments."

    That is why I believe that the book should be owned so it could be re-read yearly/ picked up and paged through often. The lessons contained in them remembered and re-applied. And just like with the author building on ones smaller experiences/own lessons learned and then finding more value in the lessons mentioned later in the book, having a better understanding of the advice and able to use it more effectively.

    OSSU!
    Elfie
    HALFMAN HALFCAR

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    east coast
    Posts
    274
    Will pick it up ! As a part time 'surfer dude' I'm looking forward to it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    506
    My pleasure Henri

    I did a bit of Body-boarding myself when I went camping in High school. I loved it because I felt free in the water. I now experience that same feeling when when practicing Karate.

    Cheers
    Elfie
    HALFMAN HALFCAR

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