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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    355
    You can purchase all these components from sure fire and screw them together at home... or buy them seperately online, and assemble like legos.
    I have switched LED, Heads ends etc. the Thyrm is a decent clip and is removable, the ring can be cut if not desired. But hey maybe that’s just me, I still use 100mph tape and 550 instead of the custom thing of the week.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    200
    Some of you may have had better luck with streamlight but I've had issues with several of them. I also have a couple of buddies that had to send their Protacs in for warranty replacement. One was bad right out of the package and the other failed within a year.
    My 9 year old Surefire is still running on the original switch. I replaced the dual output head with a. single output Malkoff. It's 300 and something lumens I think. Can't remember. But it casts the beam wide enough that it's not that intense of a light. There is a big difference with the intensity of a 300 lumen spot light and a 300 lumen flood light.
    Be alert, stand firm in the faith, act like a man, be strong. Your every action must be done with love.

  3. #23
    I EDC a 500 lumen light for one big reason: blinding power.

    Twice I have been approached at night and used my EDC light to temporarily blind them while getting off the X. Worked like a charm.

    At home beside my gun rest a 150 lumen light.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Palmer, Alaska
    Posts
    6,695
    The light that sees the most use in my hands is a $10 ThorFire pen light. It is less than 6" long, roughly 3/4" diameter, has a pocket clip (that has to be reinforced with electrical tape to prevent it from popping off), tail cap switch, and a "striker" bezel. It throws roughly 100 lumens.

    I personally have more interest in pen lights than in "tactical" lights. I can carry a pen light virtually anywhere without raising eyebrows. Nobody notices an extra "pen" on a professional. I can simply clip it into a pocket--it doesn't take up space on the belt and it doesn't add bulk to my already significant EDC loadout. I prefer something that can feed from AAA or AA batteries. I can use it as a kubotan. And they generally don't throw a gazillion lumens.

    On pocket clips: I would prefer a clip (both for lights and pens) that extends all the way to the top of the cap, or as near to it as possible. Many pens and lights position the clip well away from the ends, leaving too much of the body of the pen or light sticking up out of the pocket. It makes it too easy for the pen/light to fall out, get snagged, grabbed, or simply be noticed. The deeper you can position the light in your pocket, the better.
    Virtute et Armis

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Southeast Florida
    Posts
    1,535
    Quote Originally Posted by LawDog View Post
    The light that sees the most use in my hands is a $10 ThorFire pen light. It is less than 6" long, roughly 3/4" diameter, has a pocket clip (that has to be reinforced with electrical tape to prevent it from popping off), tail cap switch, and a "striker" bezel. It throws roughly 100 lumens.

    I personally have more interest in pen lights than in "tactical" lights. I can carry a pen light virtually anywhere without raising eyebrows. Nobody notices an extra "pen" on a professional. I can simply clip it into a pocket--it doesn't take up space on the belt and it doesn't add bulk to my already significant EDC loadout. I prefer something that can feed from AAA or AA batteries. I can use it as a kubotan. And they generally don't throw a gazillion lumens.

    On pocket clips: I would prefer a clip (both for lights and pens) that extends all the way to the top of the cap, or as near to it as possible. Many pens and lights position the clip well away from the ends, leaving too much of the body of the pen or light sticking up out of the pocket. It makes it too easy for the pen/light to fall out, get snagged, grabbed, or simply be noticed. The deeper you can position the light in your pocket, the better.
    And no exposed switch! I used to carry a pen light in my pocket--it would frequently turn on when I sat down. Sometimes I noticed, sometimes it just ran the batteries dead.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Southeast Florida
    Posts
    1,535
    On the original topic... I've heard the arguments for momentary-only switching, single brightness level, and not going crazy with the lumens, but I'm not sure I want to restrict myself like that if it's not necessary. It seems to me like more flexibility doesn't have to affect tactical concerns, if implemented correctly.

    Momentary and constant-on should definitely not be combined in the same switch, but the switching can easily be separated (twist for constant on, separate switches, etc.).

    Brightness switching should definitely not be combined with the activation switch, but why not have another way of selecting brightness level if desired that doesn't affect tactical effectiveness?

    You may not want your immediate activation to generate 1,000 lumens, but why not have the option of switching to something dimmer or brighter than your preferred instant-on level, as desired in a specific situation?

    I agree that most of the options out there are not suitable for tactical applications. But I also think that technology has given us a situation where we don't have to limit our options to get what we want.

    So my ideal flashlight would be one that had a primary activation button that always and only provided momentary-on with a brightness level of whatever I have chosen, and then some kind of secondary controls that allowed me to choose constant-on and a range of brightness from extremely dim to extremely bright.

    This would be a flashlight design that could be adapted to many possible applications instead of only being limited to a very narrow range of uses.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    6,674
    I'd rather not have a Bop-It for a flash light.
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  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    917
    Quote Originally Posted by Dorkface View Post
    I'd rather not have a Bop-It for a flash light.
    Good one! I agree all those features would make a light overly complex. I think an EDC light and a strict gunfighting light are two different things. I agree that on a gunfighting light I would want a momentary switch only. 200-500 lumens would be plenty depending on the type of beam it puts out. My buddy has a 1000 lumen light but the beam is very widely dispersed. It doesnít look nearly as bright as my stream light ProTac HL with 750 lumens. The gunfighting light should have one output. Above all else it should be tough and caveman simple.

    However, an EDC light should be able to do a couple of things. I live in a rural state and when itís time to take the doggies out, I want as bright a light to light up the back yard to the tree line. Which is 3 acres. I want to be able to see not only the mutts, but anything else that might be out there after dark. I also use the low power setting to find the right keys to get into the house. Yes I believe you definitely can have too much light. The first time I used 750 lumens to find the right key to get into the house I was blind as a bat. 35 lumens on low is much better!

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Western WA state
    Posts
    1,140
    I have a NEBO CSI edge 50 (I think) that I got for $8 to qualify for free shipping. Stupendously usefullittle light, fits each of your specifications except no incandescent cover and it doesn't take CR123As, it takes a single AA.

    Sent from my Y538 using Tapatalk
    "they have no basis of comparison and have trouble understanding how an education in violence is presented and have to struggle through the internalization of the topic."
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  10. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Southeast Florida
    Posts
    1,535
    Quote Originally Posted by Dorkface View Post
    I'd rather not have a Bop-It for a flash light.
    lol I had to look that up to even know what you're talking about!

    I'm not describing anything very radical... the features I discussed can already be found from various manufacturers--I'm just talking about combining them into one package. It wouldn't be very complicated:

    1. a tailcap button that only activates momentary-on at your desired brightness level

    2. a switch such as rotating the tail cap for constant-on

    3. a protected second switch somewhere else that cycles through brightness, or handles programming with longer presses (that's something that you would probably only do one time initially and then never have a reason to change again)

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