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  1. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    PRK
    Posts
    8
    In regards to Edelweiss question on bolt cutters, I have been building commericial fencing for 28 yrs and the best bolt cutters we have found are the Rigid line. That being said the easiest way to cut cable is a rechargeable grinder with an abrasive cut off wheel. The biggest problem with cutting cable with bolt cutters is that cutting hardened steel eventually springs the jaws/handles of the bolt cutters, so when you go to cut cable the jaws wont close far enough as you have found out. You could just carry two bolt cutters and only use one for locks and one for cable.

    Jim

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    7,501
    Quote Originally Posted by Gabe Suarez View Post
    There is no sign up process needed. If we do not see responses there, I might simply kill the blog again. If you like reading those, please take the very little amount of time it takes to comment there. The day will come very soon when those articles will ONLY be on the blog and not on the forum.
    If I might be so bold why the push to get people to comment and such at the blog? Is the end goal to compete with all the other gun blogs out there? I don't read gun blogs as I usually know more then the authors and the comments are full of retards humping door knobs. Around here I am the idiot child (firefly ref lol).
    Geek Warlord
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  3. #43
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    165
    I wanted to ask the sages here about breaching vehicles, in particular armoured and hardened vehicles. A client runs some high risk rapid response teams, whose job it is to respond to cash in transit heists. Quite often they end up having to rescue the occupants of the armoured cash vehicle from a wreck or roll over. They requested Halligan tools , but Im told that this will not be adequate. Ive heard of PRT tools. Time is of the essence as quite often, fire is involved. Any ideas?

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    7,501
    Drill the locks?
    Geek Warlord
    Dungeons & Dragons & Deadlifts

    Muscle Wizard Casts: Fist


    CRG-1 DPS
    CRG-2 CRG x 2
    SGF-1 Shotgun Gunfighting
    Trauma care under fire
    Spetsnaz Sniper
    HRO-5 Terrorist & Active Shooter Interdiction
    HRO-6 CQB: Fighting in Structures
    CRG-4 Force on Force
    HRO-5 Terrorist & Active Shooter Interdiction - 3 day
    TWOTU edition
    Trauma Medicine for the CCW Operator
    Pistol Ground Fighting (Taint Shooting Progressions)

    TWOTU since May 2015

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    1,685
    Quote Originally Posted by Bushboy View Post
    I wanted to ask the sages here about breaching vehicles, in particular armoured and hardened vehicles. A client runs some high risk rapid response teams, whose job it is to respond to cash in transit heists. Quite often they end up having to rescue the occupants of the armoured cash vehicle from a wreck or roll over. They requested Halligan tools , but Im told that this will not be adequate. Ive heard of PRT tools. Time is of the essence as quite often, fire is involved. Any ideas?
    I have breached up-armored SUVs with good success going thru the windscreen, using simple tools. Many of the up-armored NTVs Non Tactical Vehicles have windscreens that are made of "armored" glass however are installed the same as normal windscreens and held in place with adhesive and a rubber gasket...the only difference is the glass weighs a couple hundred pounds.

    To gain access cut/pull the gasket from around the windscreen, then wedge a prybar under and flip it onto the hood......(bring some frinds and watch your toes)

    For other points on armored vehicals, access is pretty simple with a battery powered angle grinder once you know where to attack.
    Last edited by SUA SPONTE; 07-21-2014 at 01:20 PM.
    Cheers
    T.

    "VICTORIOUS WARRIORS WIN FIRST...
    AND THEN GO TO WAR,
    WHILE DEFEATED WARRIORS GO TO WAR FIRST...
    AND THEN SEEK TO WIN." Sun tzu


  6. #46
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Phoenix, Arizona
    Posts
    9,954
    Hydrolic spreader should work to pop hinges/latches.
    Greg "Hyena" Nichols
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  7. #47
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Rural suburb of southern California
    Posts
    1,590
    Quote Originally Posted by Dorkface View Post
    If I might be so bold why the push to get people to comment and such at the blog? Is the end goal to compete with all the other gun blogs out there? I don't read gun blogs as I usually know more then the authors and the comments are full of retards humping door knobs. Around here I am the idiot child (firefly ref lol).
    It is easier to archive and retrieve the articles on the blog. Here they can buried under all the posts.
    Dave Sauer
    Suarez International Tier 1 Staff Instructor

    "The path which leads to truth is littered with the bodies of the ignorant." --Musashi

    Onward & Upward!

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    South Florida, USA
    Posts
    3,995
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Nichols View Post
    Hydrolic spreader should work to pop hinges/latches.
    The jaws of life that the fire department carry will work.

    Sent from the TACC OPS Center
    I kneel for no man and pray to only one God; Jesus Christ.

    تدريب لتكون في نهاية المطاف الأمريكي الكافر

    CRG 09/2012, TMCO 11/2012, RGF I 09/2013, ACRG 11/2013

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Rural suburb of southern California
    Posts
    1,590
    The make special hydraulic spreaders for doors with thinner "jaws" to get between doors and jams. They cost about $7,500.
    Dave Sauer
    Suarez International Tier 1 Staff Instructor

    "The path which leads to truth is littered with the bodies of the ignorant." --Musashi

    Onward & Upward!

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    427
    Awesome articles, thanks for sharing.

    What do yo use to rubber wrap the sledge grip? Is it the tennis racquet wrap stuff or something better?

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