More 4x4 Schooling, Please or How is this possible?

[DavidBAz]

How is it possible that a Toyota 2WD PreRunner = 4WD goodness?
I've read about the tuning and the suspension and
other things beyond my comprehension. From Edmunds (http://www.edmunds.com/toyota/tacoma/?sub=double-cab&ps=used)

The PreRunner provides the look and suspension of the four-wheel-drive trucks sans the actual four-wheel-drive running gear, while the X-Runner features modifications that enhance on-street performance without giving up much utility.
How can 2WD=4WD?
Anyone know the "X-Runner Double Cab"?
Is a PreRunner the way to go for Arizona fire roads and the like?
Is there less maintenance/things to go wrong?
What is the on-road ride like?
Thank you all, again.

[DaveJames]

sans the actual four-wheel-drive running gear, if it doesn't have the 4wd system don't confuse the ability to go off road the same way

[WVShooter]

Put it some of the places I've driven thru and it would still be there.

[Chris Upchurch]

Higher ground clearance but not 4 wheel drive. It would probably get you more places than an average sedan (perhaps even more than a sedan with all wheel drive) but not as many as a high clearance vehicle with 4 wheel drive.

[dave72]

rear limited slip

[Vaporware]

A 2WD like you describe is just a 2WD truck. Prerunner setups usually have a lift kit, slightly larger than stock tires and either a limited slip rear diff and/or a locker. They have some advantages in certain situations. They are lighter, less complicated, generally get better gas milage, and have better on-road manners than their 4WD brethren. For things like firebreaks and gravel roads and even some desert terrain, these are not a bad choice.
That said, they are not on a par with a 4WD when it comes to certain rugged terrain. If you decide to go that route do yourself a major favor and get a winch as well. A pre runner with a winch and an eye to keeping out of trouble will get you a lot of places pretty handily.

-Vapor

[m18]

Prerunners are built to cover desert terrain at high speed. They're real purpose is to pre-run a track so the driver can get a feel for the course before the actual race (desert racing), and also as a chase vehicle... though they've gained popularity as fun/sport in themselves. They don't really need 4x4 because of the speeds they cruise at, and so they usually don't have 4wd drivelines as that's unnecessary weight and more parts to break. The suspension systems designed for prerunners are generally different from your average rock crawler/offroad vehicle... while your average offroader will need to flex the suspension at times, these machines need to be able to absorb rough terrain at high speeds and not fall apart. Generally, you'll find that prerunners have extremely long travel shocks and springs (or coilovers), put a greater importance on proper bumpstopping, have at least a shock hoop if not a full cage, etc.
I took a look at the article you linked to, and it's just a dumb sales pitch. They're using the popularity of the "prerunner" title to attract customers and up their sales... like places around here selling stock/mildly upgraded Jeeps and saying they're "ready to crawl on the rocks."

Recommend you mute the sound for these...
An average offroad truck needs to handle this (note the lack of significant suspension travel):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1HLfVUUESg

A prerunner needs to be able to handle stuff like this (the last vid gets pretty good around 40sec and onward):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WdhXlLCFgY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHK6HqyAi6I

[Elkhunter]

I might point out that a 4WD isnt really a four wheel drive unless you use lockers.

The primary design feature of a differential is to allow the two drive axles attached to the same differential to rotate at different speeds so that it can turn, the bad side effect of this is that when a tire loses traction it tends to get all the power.

This is why 2 WD's seem to get stuck so easily, but I assure that even a 4 WD can get stuck, hence the reason for a lift, which allows bigger tires, which gives more ground clearance under the axles, BUT not nearly as much as one might think. You need a 2 inch increase in tire size to gain 1 inch of axle clearance. Which in the practical side of the real world isnt much, you need to see 3 to 4 inches of axle clearance to really see much of a difference, which translates to a whopping 6 to 8 inches in tire size increase.

This of course translates to a much heavier tire which of course puts more stress on your drivetrain, it also requires longer shocks, more fender clearance and a beefier drive train to handle the added stress. You lose turning radius and articulation as a result of these changes.

You have far more to gain from taking the factory issued street slicks off and putting on a decent tire, such as a BFG mud T/A and learning to drive better, it isnt just about mashing the gas pedal to the floor and hauling ass, although there are some occasions where that is your only remaining option.

Another change that a vehicle can benefit from is swapping out the ring gears, changing gear ratios applies more low speed power to the wheels, also using an air locker can be an enormous advantage at just the right moment. When you have an air locker installed you can change the gear ratio at the same time, its a 2 for 1 deal what works out quite nicely in your favor.

I had a stock toyota SR5 that had a factory lift which allowed 32 inch tires under it, it came stock with 4.56 ratio instead of the standard 4.10. The thing was an absolute beast in nasty terrain, it was very very rare to get it stuck.

Another comparison at the same time that I had a Jeep Cherokee sport with only slightly oversized BFG mudders on it (235 75r 15's) my ex brother in law had a built jeep CJ5 with lift, big tires and hot engine. My Cherokee had more ariculation, better turn radius, better traction, better gas milage and covered rougher terrain easier. The one and only place that he had an advantage was in deeply rutted roads that would high center my vehicle and this was only when there was no other option but for me to go straight through it.

[wweverett]

With enough speed you can get a greyhound bus to go anywhere you want. To go slow you need 4x4.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[NateR]

The Toyota Tacoma Prerunner is in the same class as my Mazda B3000 Dual Sport - it's a 2wd truck that comes with a factory lift kit and more aggressive looking all terrain tires. It looks the part, but it's not a true off road vehicle. As Chris pointed out, the extra ground clearance will take you places that most cars can't go, but that just means you'll be further from AAA when you get stuck. :)

N

[choirboy]

Plus one on a winch. I will even go so far as to say fore and aft winchES are better. Toss in a couple of come alongs, a snatch block, a coil of extra cable And some cable splicers Most of my 4x4 driving is on my farm which has elevation changes from just under 700 feet to 2300 feet, much of the lowland is swampy. A small chainsaw or at least a bow saw are damn handy as well.

Choirboy

[Netpackrat]

When you NEED a winch, nothing else will really do. With enough chains, straps, etc, you can fake it with a high lift jack, but it can turn what would be a 15-20 minute job with a winch, into an hours long ordeal.

[BillyOblivion]

How is it possible that a Toyota 2WD PreRunner = 4WD goodness?
I've read about the tuning and the suspension and
other things beyond my comprehension. From Edmunds (http://www.edmunds.com/toyota/tacoma/?sub=double-cab&ps=used)
How can 2WD=4WD?


It depends on what your idea of "off roading" is. If it's this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLjxr_M_E6I or this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Vmqn5Y9myQ then a 2wd isn't going to cut it.

If it's mostly just rutted fire roads and dirt tracks when it's dry then you'll be ok (as long as you take a come-along or a wench...I mean winch).



Is there less maintenance/things to go wrong?


2WD systems are simpler and lighter than 4wd systems, so yes they are simpler and more fuel efficient. However there are mid-80s Toyotas out there with 600k miles on them on more-or-less original transmissions and engines. While some bits on their american consumer oriented lines are no doubt built to lower standards, I bet that with care and proper treatment you'll be able to drive the truck well past when you're bored with it.

The question is what are you intending to use the tool for, and what you want. A 2wd is fine for a LOT of things, but when you need 4wd you really need it.

[cco45acp]

If the terrain you're going across is relatively flat, firm and dry (think hard packed desert), ground clearance in more important than 4WD IMHO. For Brit Long Range Reconnaissance Group in WWII, 2wd Ford and Chevrolet pick-ups were more important than their Land Rovers.

Met I guy once that took tours overland from Egypt to South Africa. Asked him what vehicle he used, expected to hear Land Rover or some other real 4WD. He said 2WD Mercedes mini-buses because fuel economy was more important than 4WD.

Muddy, snowy, big rocks, and steep hills need 4WD. Otherwise 2WD with good tires and high ground clearance should carry the day. YMMV.

[Valvert Lucius Fox]

Plus one on a winch. I will even go so far as to say fore and aft winchES are better. Toss in a couple of come alongs, a snatch block, a coil of extra cable And some cable splicers Most of my 4x4 driving is on my farm which has elevation changes from just under 700 feet to 2300 feet, much of the lowland is swampy. A small chainsaw or at least a bow saw are damn handy as well.

Choirboy

Choirboy, your farm sounds like a fun place!! Second everything you have said and I have had 4X4's since 1962. Stuck every one of them. Without a winch you won't trust yourself to try a lot of places. With it, I would try most if I could make sure my cable would reach a tree. Anchors work too, but are time consuming. Got to tell you though, I've had a lot of makes and models--but the Land Rover was the best IMHO.

[choirboy]

I have never owned a Land Rover. I can tell you that I like the true LOCKING front and rear differentials on the older than mid 80's trucks. They started to sissyfy the true lock ups because it was hell on U-JOINTS if you had them locked on ground that did not allow easy tire slippage. Too many of today's "men" need instructions engraved on simple hand tools and most could not change their oil without watching a video on their "smartphone" as they did the job.

Choirboy

[denko]

When you NEED a winch, nothing else will really do. With enough chains, straps, etc, you can fake it with a high lift jack, but it can turn what would be a 15-20 minute job with a winch, into an hours long ordeal.

Indeed,BTDT.

[Netpackrat]

Lockers are great for a more dedicated off road rig, but if you live someplace with with winter you may find them to be less than desirable, even the selectable lockers like an ARB or OX, and the automatic lockers are downright dangerous on slippery roads. I run limited slip differentials in both axles of my Jeep and I find them to be more consistently useful; they won't do as well off road as a full locker, but they are a constantly used enhancement on road for 6-8 months of the year. The selectable lockers are okay but in winter road conditions you'll find yourself stuck in open differential mode like everyone else, since it's not safe to engage the lockers unless you want to find the shortest path to the nearest ditch.

My brother has an Auburn "Ected" differential in one of his Jeeps and I think that's the hot setup for northern climes. It normally operates as a limited slip diff, until you hit the switch. Then it locks up. The lockup maybe isn't as strong as a full locker, but the guys complaining about slippage are usually the ones with 35+ inch tires and a lead foot. My brother is running 33s and has had no trouble with his.