Older Cherokees

[TMAC]

I am considering buying an older Cherokee and was wondering if anyone here knows anything about the models pre 1991 vs 1991-1997 vs. 1997 and newer? I have been told 1991-1995 are the best for a beater 4x4 and that the 4.0L motor has good heads up to 1999 and then 1999+ have good intakes and problems with heads? I know this isn't a Jeep forum but I know there are alot of knowledgeable folks here, so wanted some opinions.
Thanks

[jmac_52]

I worked in a Jeep dealership for a few years, so I have some knowledge. In my opinion, the 4.0L straight 6 was one of the best engines they ever used. I was quite impressed with the performance of the ones built from '91-'96. They had some issues with engine noise, but if you could stand the noise, it would outrun and outperform the others by a long shot.

I left the trade in late '96, so I can't speak for the years following that. I hope it helps.

[McTavish]

I would avoid the pre '91s and look for a '95-'96 model. We have a '96 with right at 240k on it and it still runs like a scalded ape.
The newer ones, '97 up, the major diff is in looks, the "newer intake" didn't add much if any power despite all the hype it got.
The biggest issue across the board is the factory exhaust manifold is prone to cracks, easy to fix with a quality header.

[osagemarine]

I've got a 92, with a straight 6. It had been rolled when I got it and I've put almost 200,000 on it since then. The motor is great, the mine has the Toyota auto trans and its tough. I've got 4 kids that have all learned to drive it. The only issue I've had is the radiator was too small. AMCs being what they were/are they would put whatever was at hand on the vehicle they were building. A word of caution, jeeps are as contagious as guns and even more expensive.

[Mickey Rourke]

I would avoid the pre '91s and look for a '95-'96 model. This was the advice I got from my mechanic.

I have a '95 'Country" Cherokee with 220K (4.0L). It still runs great and gets 18-20mpg in 2WD.

[olywa]

I have 1988 Cherokee with 238xxx. Runs great must reliable car ever.

[Dr_Dave]

1996 jeep 259xxx never had a lick of trouble. gets about 19MPG.

[Walk-Softly]

Had a 1986 Cherokee that ate two V-6 engines, 2.8L IIRC. Avoid, as this seemed common in the early years.

Sister had 91-92 Cherokee that she drove over 220k on original 4.0 engine and then she sold it in good running condition.

I also can testify the front seats can soak up a pint or two of blood which only slight discoloration. Solid rides.

[ordinarysaint]

+1 What everybody has said so far... Also a good thing to look for is Waggoneer models with Dana 44 rear ends.Much stronger than the D35.I think 96 or 97 started using Chrysler 8.25 axles,also a better set up than the D35s.Good stuff to know if your going with bigger tires.Also,FWIW,you can take the backing plates off of a Grand Cherokee and get rear disc brakes.

[PistolWhipped86]

I've got an '01 Cherokee Sport, 4.0L, 4x4 and the thing is a tank. It handles surprisingly well for it's size, has some get-up-and-go, drinks enough gas to make a eco-wuss shit themselves, and I've not had a single mechanical issue yet. I suspect I need to replace a couple of fuses though.

My stepmother had a '96 or '97 that she drove for almost a half-million miles before she sold it. It's still driving around town, 2 owners later.

And I read somewhere that Border Patrol used to use Cherokees, and the average life they got out of them was somewhere in the range of 300K miles. For comparisons, most PD Crown Vics were lucky to get half that.

[TMAC]

I also can testify the front seats can soak up a pint or two of blood which only slight discoloration. Solid rides.

What the hell have you been up to in your Jeep?! :scared1::biglaugh: Good info to know though!

[TMAC]

I would avoid the pre '91s and look for a '95-'96 model. We have a '96 with right at 240k on it and it still runs like a scalded ape.
The newer ones, '97 up, the major diff is in looks, the "newer intake" didn't add much if any power despite all the hype it got.
The biggest issue across the board is the factory exhaust manifold is prone to cracks, easy to fix with a quality header.

Good info! Is there any difference between the '95-'96 model and the '91-'94 models? Didn't they all have the same engine, transfer case, differential? If so, then why prefer a '95-'96 over the previous years?

[TMAC]

My goal for the cherokee is a daily driver with some option to go offroad with the family for shooting, camping, 4x4 and just recreation or driving in the snow. I plan on doing a 3.5" lift and put 31" tires on it, so nothing too monstrous.

[emak]

91 is the way to go...good motor(4.0), pre OBD II so less hassle with any performance mods you may want.. good vehichles

[ordinarysaint]

[My goal for the cherokee is a daily driver with some option to go offroad with the family for shooting, camping, 4x4 and just recreation or driving in the snow. I plan on doing a 3.5" lift and put 31" tires on it, so nothing too monstrous]

Thats exactly how I had my '90 set up.For a good,inexpensive wheel you can pick up some early model Liberty wheels.I had-245x75(?)x16s tires on.They were factory Rubicon MTRs.With the 3 1/2 lift and those wheels and tires I could flex all over the place without crunching my fenders.

[KaiserJeep]

'91+ is the High Output version of the 4.0L, which is what you want. The 2000-2001 motors were the very best in terms of reliability with the distributorless ignition, but suffer from excessive smog controls that mute the power a bit. Avoid the 2.5L 4-banger unless it's a really good deal.

The best transmission is the AW-4 4-speed automatic used from 1987-2001 on the 4.0L. For some years, there is a single position for gears 1&2, which prevents you from holding the transmission in 1st for braking downhill. These should be converted with an overide switch that will prevent the 1-2 upshift, you can find details online.

Examine carefully the gaps around the doors and hood and tailgate, and the corners of the door window frames. Cracks or rust or uneven gaps are a sign that that vehicle has been beaten to death offroad - avoid such a chassis. The XJ is unit body construction, when the body lets go, it's done - so avoid any vehicle with rust throughs anywhere.

[RussellMiller]

I own a 2000 Cherokee Sport. Had 44,000 miles when I bought it. Now has 185,000 and the 4.0 motor is still very powerful. I have an 08 model Jeep Commander and have no plans to get rid of the Cherokee sport whatsoever. It has taken me many places off road while hunting, through snows, and up and down sandy ocean fronts. Parts are cheap to buy since there are so many of these things around.

It is still my main go to vehicle for anything off road.

[baznmel]

Just an observation on the construction of these older Cherokees- At my PD get into cars as a public service for owners who have locked their keys inside. Typically we ust use a hard plastic wedge to create a little gap to reach through with a 1/4 inch hooked rod and pop the lock button. Most are disturbingly easy (to the owner) for us to get in. The only one to deafeat me in a long time was an older cherokee (maybe early '90's?) some college kid had locked himself out of. The door frame wouldn't budge- not even a little. I commented that it seemed to me built like a tank- lots more metal and zero give. I was impressed.

[TMAC]

'91+ is the High Output version of the 4.0L, which is what you want. The 2000-2001 motors were the very best in terms of reliability with the distributorless ignition, but suffer from excessive smog controls that mute the power a bit. Avoid the 2.5L 4-banger unless it's a really good deal.

The best transmission is the AW-4 4-speed automatic used from 1987-2001 on the 4.0L. For some years, there is a single position for gears 1&2, which prevents you from holding the transmission in 1st for braking downhill. These should be converted with an overide switch that will prevent the 1-2 upshift, you can find details online.

Examine carefully the gaps around the doors and hood and tailgate, and the corners of the door window frames. Cracks or rust or uneven gaps are a sign that that vehicle has been beaten to death offroad - avoid such a chassis. The XJ is unit body construction, when the body lets go, it's done - so avoid any vehicle with rust throughs anywhere.

Excellent! Thank you. Didn't know this stuff from my small bit of research online!!

[McTavish]

'96 was the 1st year of the 8 1/4 Mopar rear axle I think. The early ones have a vacum disconnect on the front axle prone to failure which means no front axle when in 4wd. I have a breakdown here I'll hunt up and post the diff between years.

Here ya go most anything and everything you want/need to know. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Cherokee_(XJ)

[KaiserJeep]

One thing I forgot to mention in my earlier message. The Cherokee XJ is basicly a unit body construction with fiberglass nose and tailgate. They are vulnerable in a rear-end collision to fuel tank damage, and the 20+ gallon tank is right ahead of and below the lightweight rear stock bumper. But they have a decent 5,000lb tow rating with the 4.0L engine, AW-4 automatic transmission, and a Class III hitch receiver.

The factory Class III hitch puts a stout piece of rectangular steel tubing across the rear of the fuel tank, bolted to the unit chassis in six places, and this will protect the gas tank in a collision. Therefore, look for the factory tow package even if you have nothing to tow. If there is no hitch receiver, both DrawTite and Hidden Hitch make one, and you should install it.

[McTavish]

To add to the above a real gas tank skid plate will help a bunch too. The factory one is plastic.

[Netpackrat]

'91+ is the High Output version of the 4.0L, which is what you want. The 2000-2001 motors were the very best in terms of reliability with the distributorless ignition, but suffer from excessive smog controls that mute the power a bit.

Have the same engine in my '01 Wrangler. The factory actually quoted a little more power in '01 than in previous years (190hp), and I certainly wouldn't describe it as being muted. The only real problem with mine is with all the weight I've added to my Jeep, it really isn't quite enough anymore.


'96 was the 1st year of the 8 1/4 Mopar rear axle I think. The early ones have a vacum disconnect on the front axle prone to failure which means no front axle when in 4wd. I have a breakdown here I'll hunt up and post the diff between years.

You can add a device called a "Posi Lock" which will cure this problem completely; it replaces the vacuum solenoid with a cable and handle in the cockpit that is directly controlled by the driver.

Another thing about the XJ, is for a while there it was one of the most commonly stolen vehicles in the country. Lots of stolen XJs got shipped to South America, where they are so popular that evidently a production line was set up building counterfeit versions.

[McTavish]

I made my own posi lok and used it for awhile, there are a few links to write ups. Now I have aftermarket 1 piece shafts with the larger axle joints etc.

[TMAC]

I made my own posi lok and used it for awhile, there are a few links to write ups. Now I have aftermarket 1 piece shafts with the larger axle joints etc.


This is some of the info that I am not well informed on.

[TMAC]

So to sum it up I should be looking at a '91 or '95-'96, get an aftermarket gas skid plate for rear end collisions, definitely get a 4.0L motor, 3.5" lift with 31's is very capable and dependable and watch the vacuum solenoid on the front axle of the '96's?

How do you guys feel about '91-95 models as a whole? I am leaning towards the '91-'96 models.

[McTavish]

Some where early mid 90s they did away with the vac disconnect. Not sure what year it was for sure. Our '96 does not have one and I know of some '94 & '95s that don't also. I can dig in the FSM and check if you need/want me too.
Yes a 3" lift will clear 31"s. www.4wd.com has a XJ only catalog free for the asking.

eta: Just looked, '92 was the "Official year" that the disconnect went away though some late '91s will not have it either.

[McTavish]

Wow just looked on craigslist for Nashville, a whole lot of XJs for sale around here. Prices run the scale from $500.- up.

[Netpackrat]

I would personally look for a low mileage, no rust, not offroaded '00 or '01 if I wanted an XJ. Figure that the newest one is now over 10 years old, and they are the kind of vehicle that you keep for a long time. Best to look for the freshest one you can find.

[odie072]

Wife has a 95 Cherokee Country with 328,000+, we put about 50,000 on it. Still going pretty strong. The exhaust manifold is cracked on 3 pipes and has to be replaced, I've replaced alternator, starter and a few other externals. Good sturdy vehicles.

odie

[Horsehide]

I would personally look for a low mileage, no rust, not offroaded '00 or '01 if I wanted an XJ. Figure that the newest one is now over 10 years old, and they are the kind of vehicle that you keep for a long time. Best to look for the freshest one you can find.
^ This has been my daily driver for the past year... Ten years later, you still see a ton of these guys on the road. They are not cheap though (if you can find one in good condition).

[TMAC]

^ This has been my daily driver for the past year... Ten years later, you still see a ton of these guys on the road. They are not cheap though (if you can find one in good condition).


Unfortunately my funds are low as I am trying to get rid of an extra vehicle payment and buying a cherokee outright. I plan to spend around $3k-4K and maybe get a lift and tires from there. I need a 4x4 daily driver out here but I don't plan on rock crawling or anything. I don't think I can buy an 00-01 with my funds.

[TeamStone]

I'm looking to buy a truck/SUV for cash and hadn't considered a Cherokee until I read this thread.

I'm looking at a local 1996 Cherokee with the 4.0L engine, but it has a 5-speed manual transmission.

It sounds like that year and engine get high marks, but what are the thoughts from the experts on that manual transmission?

[McTavish]

It's good to go with the 5 speed. Should be an AX15.

[TMAC]

5 speed compare to an automatic....is there an advantage in a manual compare to an automatic when off roading??

[McTavish]

Depends on what you like. I prefer a stick shift as do most of the group I wheel with. We do have a few who swear by an auto though. 2 of three Jeeps we own are auto with the main trail use Jeep being the lone stick shift.

[Winchester67]

I had a 96 with the straight six...bulletproof. And my girlfriend loved the heated seats. Sunroof was trouble...sometimes it would not retract. As with many Jeeps the little things drive you crazy but the drivetrain is solid. Of course, when I saw the "Older Cherokees" title I thought this was going to be about the really old ones. I had a 1970 ish with a 360 V-8 and a four speed back in the day. I miss that one!

[Elkhunter]

Ive owned three, in the order I owned them;

94 Cherokee sport, this was my favorite, with just a change of tires it would go almost anywhere and had lower diff. ratio that came with the sport package, lost it in my first divorce. 4.0L engine which was awesome, good fuel milage, very nice snappy power and handled nicely.

95 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0 L engine, owned it 11 years, ex wife killed the engine, I put a rebuilt in, got another 200k miles out of it before a drunk rear ended me. As stated above, factory hitch saved the gas tank. Good milage and so so power, the Grand Cherokee definately wasnt as snappy as the Sport Cherokee, the higher diff. ratio was noticable. For the last few years I owned it the 4WD would stick locked in or locked out. Also it sat a little lower and had a tendency to get stuck on heavy snow with all the skid plates under it.

93 Grand Cherokee Laredo with the V8 ............. it sucks, 10mpg, full time 4WD, hate it, 170k miles and burning one quart of oil every 3 weeks. Handles the same as my other Grand Cherokee. Definately wont buy another V8 again nor will I get the full time 4WD.

The 4.0 engine is hands down much better and the standard and sport cherokees are better also. Lift it just enough for 30-31 inch tires, swap out the ring gears for lower ratio air lockers and it will be invincable. Put a hitch on it if it doesnt have one, after market rear bumper with tire carrier, metal skid plate for the gas tank and your rear end is pretty safe.

Personally I like the Cherokee over the CJ's and Wrangler's, better articulation and traction control, more luggage space and more comfortable.

[Dogfish Head]

99 Cherokee is the best year IMO.

[Kelveren]

This thread is extremely helpful. My wife and I are looking to replace our little Escort with something that will handle the snow and ice that the past few winters have been dumping on us...

[olywa]

Cherokees are great. Mine just died and I didn't want to drop any more money into. So I bought a land rover. Man is it nice. Can't wait to see what it can do.

[TMAC]

Cherokees are great. Mine just died and I didn't want to drop any more money into. So I bought a land rover. Man is it nice. Can't wait to see what it can do.

Nice! Just be careful with the LR. I hear they are very expensive to fix when something goes wrong. I have a friend here that sold his 2000 model because something electronic went wrong and just the parts were $3000, no labor involved. He said it was more to fix that the car was worth so he sold it.

[Kelveren]

Is there a significant difference parts-wise between the Cherokee and Grand Cherokee? I'm looking in my area and finding more Grands in the '98-'01 range, around the $4-6k mark.

[olywa]

Nice! Just be careful with the LR. I hear they are very expensive to fix when something goes wrong. I have a friend here that sold his 2000 model because something electronic went wrong and just the parts were $3000, no labor involved. He said it was more to fix that the car was worth so he sold it.

You sounds like my wife:). I did some research. I only paid $3400 for the 1998 disco. And I had repairs already done.

[Kelveren]

I ran across what I thought was a good deal, but have been slowly deciding to pass it up. The artifact in question is a 96 Cherokee Sport with 4wd in Tulsa selling for $2700. It had a tow hitch, and a motorhome towbar on the front. Story is that the owner is an older man whose wife died, so he sold off the motorhome and is now getting rid of the Jeep too. The thing was in great shape, everything works, etc. but the odometer is saying it's at 202k, and our go between says there's no way of knowing how many miles there really are on the engine. Plus, it looks like it has some rust underneath. I didn't even have to crawl underneath to see it. It was a shame too, the thing ran nice, turned almost as tight as our accent, except for that whining noise coming from the rear differential... :grumble:

From what I've heard (not researched in depth yet) the rear diffs on these tend to be a little noisy when they age, but without anything really being wrong, but I've always had my doubts. Has anyone had experience with them that relates to the whining noise? What exactly is causing that?

[Netpackrat]

I wouldn't say that noise from the diff is endemic to the breed... Some of the Grands had rear diff issues, but those generally surfaced early on, and I think it was limited to the aluminum housing D44 that some of them got, which was one of Jeep's dumber ideas. The good news is that excluding those problematic Grand axles, there is nothing unusual or non-standard about any of the axles that came in the Cherokees. Any decent driveline shop should be able to make it like new. It'll run you a few hundred in parts and labor (gear setups are not for the average DIY mechanic), but it should be a one time deal. It's also a great opportunity to install a traction enhancing differential (Locker, LSD, etc), and regear both axles for larger tires if you are interested in off-roading.

[5thShock]

No whine on our 96 Cherokee, check the gear oil level. Easy car to crawl under for shufti.