Dress Clothes for men

[back2basics]

I know there was another post similar to this but it pertained more to active wear. I have outgrown all my slacks and button ups. I'm probably not the only guy on here looking for high quality clothing for business/night out with wife/etc. Until recently it was all Jos A Banks. I'm curious where I can source custom tailored quality dress clothes that are geared more towards men that put heavy things on their backs regularly.

[ss58]

There is always a custom suit/shirt maker in most metropolitan areas. Google it and go in and talk with the tailor. If on a tight budget there are always the Big and Tall type brick and mortar stores.

[coastalcop]

Paul Fredrick (USA) Baron Boutique (overseas)

Shirts by size slim and athletic fit for PF

Total custom by BB

BB also does suits and tuxes ( as an aside has a BOND line from all the movies if that is your thing. Daniel Craig has a pretty athletic build, if it looks good on him probably will on us too) wide selection of fabrics and linings in the 300-500 for bespoke (40 some odd measurements) real buttons/holes in the coat cuff etc. Turn around was about 7 weeks last time I checked. (UPDATE looks like about 4 weeks instead now)

Jos A and sometimes mens warehouse have a selection, BUT you are usually left with the odds and ends. My last Jos I ordered online 46 long, came with 38 pants ;0 had to recall to get 34's (for IWB carry).

Unless you are willing to spend 1K plus on a suit (1K being low end) its hard to get bespoke in the states

[Greg Nichols]

Bro I feel your pain. I had an interview a couple of months ago and pulled out my favorite suit. Since My Journey, the jacket didn't fit across the back and the slacks were way too big. As this is a $1500.00 Hand made Italian Menzoni, I didn't have time for proper tailoring. Shirts were the same way, entirely too much body and not enough neck or shoulder room and my dress belts didnt' fit any more either so due to time constraints I had to run to the store and began running into problems. Slacks that fit my waist didn't fit my legs and squatter booty, if they fit legs and butt the waist was way to big. I ended up getting a pair of flat front slacks that were too big but didn't look like yoga pants on the legs and booty, an athletic cut shirt (that I still had to military tuck the body at the waist) and a new belt. I was able to pull out an older sportcoat that I had fitted for soft body armor that would still fit. So what I would do:

Proper tailoring is a key, even with a medium quality suit it looks razor sharp once it has proper tailoring. With shirts go to a big and tall store, generally they will have a large number of fabrics, paterns, and cuts that can be custom made to you (run you about $100.00.) then you won't have to have the shirt tailored.

[EDELWEISS]

Ive been happy with the tailor at the local Big and Tall store. I went there wearing my vest and holster/ammo pouches. They didn't bat an eye. The tailor is Russian, so maybe shes used to this kind of fitting. They also will make a full suit and shirts for your size, no more pants are huge to get a jacket to fit nonsense. Prices are based on the fabric you choose and seemed reasonable. Turnaround time was good too.

[P. concolor]

There are a couple of custom clothing outfits now like J Hilburn that have local reps ("stylists") that will meet you and take measurements, then you can pick styles and colors from catalogs or create your own combinations from stacks of current fabric options. Future orders are then simple once you know your measurements and can be done quick and online. I like the customized+easy access business models that let me get what I need without spending time at the mall.

[noonesshowmonkey]

Just a quick nota bene: get a few sets of measurements from different tailors (or one you have had work on things for you before, and who got it right the first time) before ordering anything online. Everyone makes things cut just a little differently. Also, learn about the drop-cut on suits. This is the difference between the shoulder/chest measurements and the waist size on the pant. Given that we are built like apes (or, just like men ought be built), the typical drop is around 6 inches. So, on a 44L (we are all built like long armed apes, amirite?), this would correspond to a 36W, which is a few inches too large for me... The honest truth is that suit makers know American men are fat: the real drop is more like 5". What's more, the drop length of a suit jacket also determines the taper, and different suit styles place the peak of this taper at different heights--one peaks below the rib cage, another at the belly button, another slightly below that--creating different silhouettes. A body builder's chest is typically thick through their full ribs and into the false, given the lets we get from pullups. Getting the correct drop, and the correct taper, can be a real bear.

[Shannon Hogan]

Tagging this thread. I'm overdue for new suit or two. One concern is having enough range of motion for the shoulders and hips for hand to hand combatives. Not sure how that affects the cut of a suit. Seams usually tear open under the arms and sometimes in the crotch during excessive movement. I don't plan to go to a fight in a suit but one may come to me. :grin:

[Custom II]

I don't wear a suit often, but I needed to get a new one for an event in a few weeks, and for court.

My old suit was waaaaaaay too small in the shoulders and chest. I dropped into Jos a Banks just to see what they had... As it turns out, I was able to find a jacket that fit well, with minor alterations.

The man helping me find a suit didn't bat an eye as I explained I wanted it to fit over a weapon. He worked with me and my rig, and immediately offered to add extra lining to the coat to protect it.

I did have to get 35 waisted pants to fit my legs. Lol.

While not an Italian bespoke suit, I'm sure it will serve me well.


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[John Chambers]

I use JAB quite a bit as I can get matching separates and then have them tailored properly. I have never had anyone second guess my suits, etc. as they fit properly and I do not buy off the clearance rack of last years rejects.

[Badger]

I use JAB quite a bit as I can get matching separates and then have them tailored properly. I have never had anyone second guess my suits, etc. as they fit properly and I do not buy off the clearance rack of last years rejects.

This. Most of the guys I worked with doing LEO stuff and executive protection went this route.

[back2basics]

Great info. I have given up on jos a banks. I am about done ordering regular size clothes period. Last time I ordered shirts that I really liked the fit if we're ll bean xl tall tshirts. Sounds like custom tailored is the only way to go.

[BillyOblivion]

I know there was another post similar to this but it pertained more to active wear. I have outgrown all my slacks and button ups. I'm probably not the only guy on here looking for high quality clothing for business/night out with wife/etc. Until recently it was all Jos A Banks. I'm curious where I can source custom tailored quality dress clothes that are geared more towards men that put heavy things on their backs regularly.

There are three classes of tailored clothing for men: "Off the Rack", "Made to Measure" and "Bespoke". Both MTM and Bespoke are called "Custom", and as often as not "MTM" is called "Bespoke" by people who should know better.

Made to Measure is generally where a tailor or a company has a couple of different styles of suits and already has generally sized patterns. They take your measurements and modify an existing pattern to your measurements and then cut and assemble it. This can be done in house by a tailor or a salesman takes your measurements and emails them to a factory in Hong Kong or India. Sometimes there is a great deal of customization available, sometimes it's just that you get a slightly better fitting suit out of the gate.

Bespoke is when the tailor works with you to develop a pattern for the suit *you* want, in the specific fabrics you want and the customization is limited only by your imagination, wallet and the tailor's skill.

These are not "quality" classes--Oxxford Clothes out of Chicago makes a suit that is second to none in the world and if it fits you with minor tailoring it's awesome. Starting at (IIRC) about 3k a suit. MTM suits often come from factories in third world countries and I'm sure there's probably a couple "bespoke" tailors out there who should take up gardening.

It all depends on how much you want to spend and what you want. If you're just going to get 2 or 3 suits at a time with a couple pairs of slacks in the standard (navy, grey, tan) then really your best bet is either a Brooks Brothers that stocks "Suit Separates" (as I mentioned in another thread) You'll be able to get a jacket and trousers from the same dye lot in a drop to match what you need at a reasonable price. If you can't find what you want BB also has an in-house MTM program where they will be able to fit you.

Nordstrom's might (dunno) also have suit separates (but I doubt it). They have a rather extensive MTM program with Hart Schaffner Marx, Hickey Freeman and Canali as participating brands. HSM makes a good solid "working man's suit". Not generally as flashy, not as much hand work, but it's sturdy and properly proportioned. Hickey Freeman is a bit further up the chain, and they do nice solid work in an American Company. A solid second tier suit. Canali is another solid second tier suit maker, though of a more Italian style.

Also I suspect if you want to throw some coin around Needless Markup...I mean Neiman Marcus can accommodate. If I had that kind of money though I'd go to a high-end mens clothing store. Most of them have MTM programs with multiple brands and will develop a relationship with your bank account that is more like a mistress than a whore (Neiman Marcus).


Proper tailoring is a key, even with a medium quality suit it looks razor sharp once it has proper tailoring.

To rephrase--a *good* fitting suit, even of mediocre quality will look better than a high quality suit that doesn't fit.

Many former military and police don't understand how a mens suit is supposed to fit. The jacket is actually *supposed* to be slightly shorter than we're used to so as to show between 1/2 and 1" of the cuff of your shirt.


With shirts go to a big and tall store, generally they will have a large number of fabrics, paterns, and cuts that can be custom made to you (run you about $100.00.) then you won't have to have the shirt tailored.

Any store that has a MTM/Custom shirt program will be able to fit you. Also once you get your measurements down there are lots of places on the internet that will take your measurements and have some peasant in a factory in some shit hole make a decent shirt for you--and you get to feel good that you fed some 12 year old kid as a bonus. :)

[WadeP]

Good info, Billy. Thank you.

[back2basics]

Great info. Huge help.

[Shooter Ready]

To rephrase--a *good* fitting suit, even of mediocre quality will look better than a high quality suit that doesn't fit.


This cannot be underemphasized. Go for the successful lawyer/financier look rather than poor doctor/government employee appearance. Also, don't forget to spring for at least midrange fabric if you go MTM. If you go cheap, it will feel terrible, you will not wear the suit and the money will be wasted.

Get measured with your gear where you will be carrying or leave extra room in the waistband, etc.

Fine clothes are often the best concealment.

[choirboy]

Only thing to add: Make sure they are making the trousers with belt loops that will fit your EDC holsters/belt combo. When I am paying, I want something capable of a 1 3/4 belt even if that is not always my Sunday/Go-To-Meetin' wear belt.

Choirboy

[BoxingRef_Rick]

Hi.

In 1976 at 18 and boxing in the 126 weight class I had to wear a 17.0 neck dress shirt..
Well as the years went on I'm now wearing nothing less then a 18.5 neck dress shirt -
and its still a struggle while Ref'ing fights!

To get around the neck problem I usually purchase 32-34 18.5 or 19.0 neck size shirts
off the rack that are big enough for "Butterbean" and I have my tailor cut everything down
to fit my pencil neck. Anybody experience anything similar.

Be safe all!

[BillyOblivion]

In 1976 at 18 and boxing in the 126 weight class I had to wear a 17.0 neck dress shirt..
Well as the years went on I'm now wearing nothing less then a 18.5 neck dress shirt -
and its still a struggle while Ref'ing fights!
To get around the neck problem I usually purchase 32-34 18.5 or 19.0 neck size shirts
off the rack that are big enough for "Butterbean" and I have my tailor cut everything down
to fit my pencil neck. Anybody experience anything similar.

That's not a pencil neck. That's at *least* a marksalot magic marker neck.

These guys aren't cheap, but if you're wearing oxford cloth button-downs (this refers to the collar, not the front of the shirt) you might find that they last longer than other makers: http://www.mercerandsons.com/. Their preference is for roomy shirts because that's sort of the New England Trad way of things, but they'll do a slimmer fit if needed.

[IANative]

I don't wear a suit often.. I dropped into Jos a Banks just to see what they had...
The man helping me find a suit didn't bat an eye as I explained I wanted it to fit over a weapon. He worked with me and my rig, and immediately offered to add extra lining to the coat to protect it.

I've had the same, positive experience at Men's Wearhouse. Even did the fitting and tailoring while carrying, both 1911 IWB strong side and G19 AIWB. The young gentleman assisting me didn't bat an eye. The middle-aged European female tailor, OTOH, was noticeably uncomfortable, despite my charming personality.

[Custom II]

I've had the same, positive experience at Men's Wearhouse. Even did the fitting and tailoring while carrying, both 1911 IWB strong side and G19 AIWB. The young gentleman assisting me didn't bat an eye. The middle-aged European female tailor, OTOH, was noticeably uncomfortable, despite my charming personality.

The guy helping me out explained they had a lot of business from local detectives, Marshals, and Secret Service types. He also chuckled about one of their tailors who was totally freaked out by guns.


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[Greg Nichols]

I've had the same, positive experience at Men's Wearhouse. Even did the fitting and tailoring while carrying, both 1911 IWB strong side and G19 AIWB. The young gentleman assisting me didn't bat an eye. The middle-aged European female tailor, OTOH, was noticeably uncomfortable, despite my charming personality.

Wait... what?

[WinstonSmith]

I've had the same, positive experience at Men's Wearhouse. Even did the fitting and tailoring while carrying, both 1911 IWB strong side and G19 AIWB. The young gentleman assisting me didn't bat an eye. The middle-aged European female tailor, OTOH, was noticeably uncomfortable, despite my charming personality.

I think it was the 'stache.